Gel manicure staple just got banned in Europe — here’s why

International

FOR years, this chemical has been the invisible force that kept gel nail polish strong. Now the European Union has banned it, citing toxicity concerns.

The prohibition, which took effect this week, applies to trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide (TPO), a chemical classified by EU regulators as a reproductive toxicant. TPO is a photoinitiator that reacts to ultraviolet (UV) light, allowing gel polish to harden during manicures.

“It starts that reaction that gets it to cure,” said Kelly Dobos, a cosmetic chemist and adjunct instructor at the University of Cincinnati’s James L. Winkle College of Pharmacy in a CNN report.

TPO has been especially common in salons because it requires UV lamps to activate. Regulators acted after animal studies linked the ingredient to testicular abnormalities and reduced fertility.

David Andrews, acting chief science officer at the nonprofit Environmental Working Group, said the ban is intended to protect both salon workers and frequent users.

Despite the restriction, gel polish itself is not being outlawed. Doug Schoon, chair of the Nail Manufacturer Council on Safety, said confusion has spread because of misleading headlines.

“Some headlines have caused unnecessary worry by calling this a ‘ban on gel polish,’ but that’s simply not true,” he said in the same report.

Experts emphasize that exposure in humans differs from animal studies. Dobos noted that research involved feeding studies, unlike the way polish is applied. She added that many companies are already reformulating with alternative photoinitiators, and consumers who want to avoid TPO entirely can choose traditional nail polish, which has a long history of safe use.

The United Kingdom plans to introduce similar restrictions next year, but the situation in the United States remains different.

TPO is still allowed in cosmetics, as U.S. regulators do not require pre-approval of most cosmetic ingredients before products reach the market. Manufacturers themselves are legally responsible for safety.

Andrew Nixon, spokesperson for the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services, said the FDA does not pre-approve cosmetics but can take action if a product is found to be unsafe.

Dobos said a nationwide U.S. ban is unlikely but expects some states to act independently. California, for example, prohibited 26 chemicals in cosmetics in 2023. Andrews added that the EU tends to move more quickly when health risks are identified, while the U.S. typically takes a more reactive stance.(MyTVCebu)